"One is never over-dressed or under-dressed with a Little Black Dress."
Karl Lagerfeld (fashion designer)
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The Parisian crowd is pushing its way into the 1884 Salon. A prestigious exhibition, the Salon is one of the only opportunities for artists to show and sell their work. Among the presenting painters, a hopeful American named John Singer Sargent is displaying a piece he believes to be "the best thing I have done."
The public couldn’t have disagreed more.
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John Singer Sargent in his studio, ca. 1884 / unidentified photographer. Photographs of artists in their Paris studios, 1880-1890. Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.
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The critics knock the painting, known today as Madame X, for being ugly and offensive.
A portrait of Madame Pierre Gautreau, Sargent’s piece shows the young woman in profile. Wearing a luscious black velvet gown with one strap hanging brazenly off her shoulder, she is neither timid nor discreet like ladies are "supposed" to be.
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Detail of a photograph of the fist version of "Madame X", the hanging strap clearly visible.
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In an attempt to soothe his attackers, Sargent repaints the strap. But this does nothing to change the public's perception. The backlash is so intense that the artist flees to London where he can take refuge from the horrible reviews.
During all this time, the public misses an important detail that Sargent includes in both versions of the piece. Hovering over the sitter’s head, a small crescent moon stands out against the monochromatic background. It’s a symbol associated with Diana, the ancient Roman goddess of hunting, well known for her chastity.
Had the public recognized this subtle allusion, would they still have reacted with such fury? No one will ever know…
What we do know is that Sargent feared for his canvas’ safety. Nervous about what the crowds might do, he kept the painting in his studio for 21 years. All that for a fallen strap.
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John Singer Sargent, "Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau)", 1883-84, oil on canvas, 82.13 x 43.25 in., Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
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 One is never over-dressed or under-dressed with a Little Black Dress.
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Karl Lagerfeld (fashion designer) 
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Detail of the crescent moon above Madame Pierre Gautreau’s head.
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What are these creepy, crawly sculptures?
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